Guides
Bajra, motor boat or shared seat? Choosing your ride on the Ganga
Three boats, three quite different mornings. A straight comparison of what each one is for — including when you should not book the expensive one.
2 min read
Journal
Guides
How to actually do the things people come to Varanasi for.
Guides
Dev Diwali in Varanasi: how to see a million lamps
On Dev Diwali every ghat in Varanasi is lit with earthen lamps and the river fills with boats. Here is how to see it without spending the evening stuck against a jetty.
2 min read
Guides
Sunrise at Dashashwamedh: a first-timer's guide
The Ganga at dawn is the reason most people come to Varanasi and the thing most first-time visitors get slightly wrong. Here is how to do it properly.
3 min read